August 31

This is our last stop in Labrador before crossing the Strait of Belle Isle, something you want to do only under favorable conditions, which are predicted for tomorrow. Red Bay has an actual road to the outside — our first such port since we began. The story of Red Bay is again — you guessed it — the story of cod, which dates back to  Basque fishermen in the 1500’s. I keep feeling we’re way south, though from most people’s point of view we’re way north. There are trees in sheltered dips but it’s still mostly low, though much greener, tundra along the coast, which is still being swept by the Labrador current; the water temperature still hovers below 50 °F.

I’m a bit sad to say good-by to Labrador (the golden arm!). I wonder if I’ll ever be back.